Contractor
vs
DIY
A trade-by-trade cost breakdown for every major scope item in a century home renovation — with honest assessments of what you can and cannot safely do yourself.
The Framework: When DIY Is and Isn't Worth It
DIY is not about saving money — it's about allocating your most constrained resource correctly. If you have 40 hours of free weekend time, spend it on high-skill-threshold, low-licensed-trade tasks where contractor margins are thickest: painting, tile, flooring prep, demo, and landscaping. Never DIY electrical, structural work, or anything that requires a licensed permit inspection.
- Best DIY candidates: labor-heavy, low-liability tasks with forgiving learning curves
- Never DIY: anything requiring a permit that a licensed professional must sign off on
- The hidden DIY cost: your time has a value — calculate at your real hourly rate
- The contractor markup: typically 20–40% on materials, 50–80% on labor
Trade-by-Trade Cost Comparison
| Trade / Scope Item | Contractor Cost | DIY Cost | DIY Viable? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Interior painting (full house, 2,000 sq ft) | $6,000–$10,000 | $800–$1,800 | ✓ Strong yes |
| Hardwood floor refinishing | $3,500–$6,000 | $600–$1,200 (rentals) | ✓ Yes — requires prep |
| Tile installation (bath, 60 sq ft) | $2,800–$5,500 | $400–$900 (materials) | ✓ Yes — learning curve |
| Demolition (non-structural) | $2,500–$5,000 | $200–$800 (dumpster) | ✓ Always DIY demo |
| Landscaping / hardscaping | $4,000–$12,000 | $800–$2,500 | ✓ Yes |
| Plaster skim coat repair | $3,200–$8,000 | $300–$900 (materials) | ✓ With training |
| Window weatherstripping + re-glaze | $250–$600 per window | $60–$140 per window | ✓ Strong yes |
| Cabinet painting + hardware | $3,000–$7,000 | $300–$800 | ✓ Yes |
| 200-amp electrical service upgrade | $9,500–$18,000 | Not legal (permit required) | ✗ Licensed only |
| Full house repipe to PEX | $5,800–$14,000 | Not advisable without license | ✗ Licensed only |
| Load-bearing wall removal + beam | $4,500–$12,000 | Cannot DIY — structural permit | ✗ Engineer required |
| HVAC replacement (furnace + AC) | $8,500–$20,000 | $3,500–$8,000 (self-install, risk) | ⚠ Licensed preferred |
| Roofing (asphalt shingles) | $8,000–$18,000 | $2,800–$6,000 (materials only) | ⚠ High risk — hire out |
| Kitchen cabinet installation | $2,500–$6,000 labor | $0 (DIY with a level and a helper) | ✓ Strong yes |
| Countertop installation (laminate/butcher block) | $800–$2,000 | $100–$400 | ✓ Yes |
The Contractor Vetting Protocol
When you do hire out, the contractor selection process determines whether you pay fair market rate or 40% over it. The Playbook includes 10 technical interview questions and 13 red-flag behaviors to screen for before signing any contract. Three rules that apply immediately:
- Never pay more than 10–15% upfront. A contractor asking for 40–50% down is a warning sign — or in a cash-flow problem.
- Get 3 bids on every trade. Not 2 — 3. The range between highest and lowest is often $4,000–$12,000 for a single trade item.
- Require a fixed-price contract with a change-order cap. Time-and-materials contracts on old-house work almost always run 30–60% over estimate.
- Check license and insurance before signing. General liability minimum $1M; workers' comp required if they have employees.
- Never pay the final 10% until punch-list is complete. This is your only leverage for defect correction.
right one
The Playbook's contractor chapter filters out generalists, high-risk operators, and the 3 contract clauses that let them overcharge you.
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